Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
